The (other) CIA and Sleepy Hollow

Before leaving the region, we drove up to Poughkeepsie for a brief visit to the CIA. We weren’t able to make reservations for their restaurants, but they have a café that doesn’t require reservations and is open for breakfast—win! Everything looked exquisite, and in addition to my breakfast pastry I picked up a few things for the road.

Chef crossing at the Culinary Institute of America

the other CIA

Delicious breakfast pastries

The other main stop on the drive back was to Sleepy Hollow Cemetery. I can’t speak to the rest of the year, but during the Halloween season it’s crowded, and the town goes all-in on seasonal décor. This was a Monday morning a few weeks before Halloween—I can only imagine what it’s like the Saturday night before Halloween. We were lucky to find a parking spot and took our time exploring the Old Dutch Church, some scenic spots along the creek that runs through it (including newer bridges—not the bridge), and the graves of Washington Irving, Carnegie, and Rockefeller which are spread throughout the hilly cemetery. I’d read “The Legend of Sleepy Hollow” just before the trip so the story was fresh, and I could imagine Irving entertaining the locals with his stories around these places.

Headless horseman statue in Sleepy Hollow

Washington Irving's grave in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

The Old Dutch Church in Sleepy Hollow (mentioned in the story)

A few of the historic graves in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

The Sleepy Hollow Cemetery is home to many notable graves—including this surprisingly modest grave of Andrew Carnegie

"Headless Horseman Bridge" over the Pocantico River in the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery (not original, and not a replica of anything—but still a lovely view!)

Enjoying autumnal beauty in the middle of the Sleepy Hollow Cemetery

In all, I was grateful for the encore—it was great to see so much of this area at a lovely time of year!

Hyde Park Homes

Thankfully we did most of the outdoor things the day before, because the day’s scattered showers didn’t disrupt our mostly indoor plans. After church, we drove to Hyde Park to visit the homes of Franklin D. Roosevelt & Eleanor Roosevelt. I knew a bit about both of them, but it was so interesting to see how FDR was raised, how they modified the imposing home to accommodate his wheelchair, etc. 

 

Home of Franklin D. Roosevelt

The dining room—hard to picture a casual meal here!

The library had a ramp to enter (note the wheelchair)

Their new-fangled television set

FDR's bedroom—the telephone was a direct line with the White House

The fancy stairs (they later built a small elevator for him to use)

Wreaths recently left at their gravesites on the property

And across the way at the cottage, to see how intentional Eleanor was in the causes she supported (e.g. American craftsman) and how she entertained visitors as a counter to the formality of the Roosevelt estate. Plus, we got to see it with my colleague Patti, who lives in the area.

Val-Kill Cottage

Sign explaining a bit more about her dreams for this farm and supporting American craftsmen.

The dining room as it would look around Thanksgiving—my great-aunt had dishes just like hers! Meals were informal and served here even when entertaining dignitaries.

So lovely to see Patti!

Grateful for a good travel buddy!

Just up the river is the Vanderbilt Mansion, and it was fun to catch a glimpse into Gilded Age entertainment as we toured the house and explored the gardens. It was easy to imagine taking a train or steamship up the river and going the last mile in a carriage or chauffeured car, and the army it took to support that lifestyle.

Vanderbilt Mansion

Entrance Hall

Dining Room

Frederick Vanderbilt's Office

Living Room

Mrs. Vanderbilt's bedroom

Kitchen at the Vanderbilt Mansion

Teahouse at the Vanderbilt Mansion

"The Pool Gardens" at the Vanderbilt Mansion

View of the Hudson from the Vanderbilt Mansion

We capped off the day on the east side of the Hudson by having dinner at the Tavern at Beekman Arms, a place my friend suggested. I hadn’t heard of it, but there’s been a tavern here since the 1700s and the quarrel between Alexander Hamilton and Aaron Burr is said to have started here. Regardless, the interior was quaint and the food was delicious.

Beekman Arms

Mohonk, New Paltz, and the Hudson

We started the day with a visit to the Mohonk Preserve, enjoying the scenic trails, a bit of fall color, and making me wonder what it would’ve been like to live in a stone gatehouse. Unlike Bear Mountain State Park, this is a private nature reserve that got its start shortly after the Civil War.

Testimonial Gate

Mohonk Preserve

From there we made our way to the town of New Paltz, which was founded by French Huguenots in the late 1670s and still has stone houses from the early 1700s and other historic homes. They were lovely, and the guided walking tour made me appreciate the history of the area a bit more.

Replica Esopus Wigwam

Interior of the Ezekiel Elting House on historic Huguenot Street

Deyo-Brodhead House in New Paltz

French Reformed Church (reconstruction)

Bevier-Elting House (architectural details showing the Dutch influence)

another charming home on Historic Huguenot Street

Reformed Church

It was a little early for peak fall foliage, but the drive in the Preserve was still scenic, and I enjoyed the short hike to an overlook to catch a glimpse of fall color. 

Made it to the top!

View from the top in Mohonk Preserve

The other highlight (literally) was Walkway Over the Hudson State Historic Park. They converted a railroad bridge that’s over a hundred years old into a pedestrian-only thoroughfare, and it made for great scenic views of the valley and the river way down below.

Sojourner Truth statue at the entrance to the bridge (she's from the region)

View of the Hudson River

Made it to the other side (and then had to walk back)

Valley Forge

Learning more about the Hudson River Valley before and during our Labor Day Camping trip made me realize that trip was only scratching the surface, so I convinced my travel buddy to return in the fall. Leaving earlier in the day allowed Kara and I the chance to stop at Valley Forge along the way. The location is beautiful and it was great to see so many locals enjoying it, but the museum and signs made me appreciate just how hard it was for the soldiers stationed there during the Revolutionary War, and the miracles it took for our eventual victory.

Reconstruction of the barracks—very cozy quarters!

National Memorial Arch honoring George Washington

Washington's Quarters

Monument to Baron von Steuben—his training of the troops was essential

Today the park also preserves natural meadows

Detail of the Washington Memorial Chapel