Great Smokey Mountains National Park

We left the hotel before dawn to catch the sunrise in the Great Smokey Mountain National Park, and it was beautiful to catch the early morning light as we drove through the mountains. At Kuwohi/Clingmans Dome, we took a short hike to the highest peak in the Park and an observation tower (and I think we were technically in North Carolina). It was a bit chilly and we were high enough to be above the clouds, waiting for them to move and give glimpses of the valley below. This location has gone through a bit of an identity crisis, as the federal government vacillates between calling it what the Cherokee have called it and what the white settlers named it, and the signage shows that ongoing tug-of-war.  

Sunrise as we drove higher and higher

Observation tower at the top

"Smoky" view from the top

Some of the signage with name changes

From there we drove to multiple lower and equally scenic spots, and I reveled in the fall colors. And as a geography nerd, getting to park and walk across the Tennessee/North Carolina state line was an extra treat. 

Fall splendor

Another gorgeous overlook

Crossing the state line with ease

"Goin' to Carolina in my mind"

We’d already seen so much, but I wanted to drop by the visitors center back near the entrance for their suggestions—and that’s when we encountered the crowds. The building itself wasn’t crowded, but the park’s layout means limited access and two-lane roads, creating one of the most scenic traffic jams you could imagine when the weather’s nice. But once we made it in so I could get my passport stamp and their recommendations, we hit the road for the Cades Cove Scenic Loop. This was still a constant line of cars, but at least we were steadily cruising. The loop winds around the remains of the village of Cades Cove, which was settled in the early 1800s but was abandoned (partly by choice) in the 1940s when the area became a national park. They left many buildings intact, so it felt a little like an Appalachian ghost town, and it was fascinating to think about what life was like in this small, isolated community.

Road to Cades Cove (between flocks of cars)

View as we were leaving the park—hard to see unless you zoom in, but scars from the 2016 fire were still visible.

Leaving the National Park, we headed to Dollywood for some final music and a cinnamon bread run to take with us.

The Grist Mill

Just one more loaf...

Seemed a bit early to start setting up for Christmas, but it looks like their decor will be sparkly and over the top (not surprised)

Dinner was a fancy buffet at the Dollywood DreamMore Resort, a great end to the day and finale of the trip.

The fancy hotel

This treasure box contains is a time capsule that won't be opened until Dolly's 100th birthday (in 2046), revealing a song that she's kept secret.

Hotel entrance after a great buffet dinner 

 Squeezing in one last Dolly stop, we swung by the Sevier County Courthouse and saw her statue in front.

The county courthouse

Dolly's statue in front of the courthouse

The next day we started the drive home after church, making a point to refuel at Buc-ee’s. It was still great, and amusing to see it appears to be the new hangout for local youth. I can also confirm that next-day cinnamon bread is still delicious.

Day at Dollywood

For all I did and didn’t know about Dollywood, one thing I knew from Disneyland was that I wanted to be there for “rope drop” (I don’t think it’s called that there, but I didn’t learn their name for it). I was so curious how this theme park would compare, given its popularity and ranking. So here are my notes:
-I loved that the day started with the national anthem just before the park opens
-they have a replica of the cabin where Dolly grew up near the entrance—walking through it, seeing how humble it was, and realizing it wasn’t that long ago blew my mind
-the park’s layout options were limited by the topography (we’re in a mountainous area, after all), but that meant a layout that was a bit tricky to navigate—everything was uphill from the entrance and it didn’t have a hub-and-spoke layout like Disney could create in flat places
-the rides are a blend of hokey pre-Dolly (she bought an existing park in the 80s) and terrifying rollercoaster that do take advantage of the steep terrain; we didn’t go on some of them
-the fall décor was darling—real giant pumpkins from around the country on display like a county fair, and creative displays of fake carved pumpkins that were even better after dark
-the coal-powered train was a fun ride and worth the wait, soot and all
-the dining pass seemed like a good idea, but for us it wasn’t worth the value
-what was worth the value was the cinnamon bread—lived up to the hype, and worth the line (picture the best cinnamon rolls coming in a small loaf pan fresh out of the oven and swimming in butter and glaze)
-they did an excellent job with live entertainment, and we attended multiple shows from all the venues Dolly covers—country, bluegrass, Christian, etc. Our favorite group was The Woods. One thing that surprised me was to not hear more of Dolly’s music throughout the day, given where we were, but that was definitely woven into her museum.

First-time visitors!

Inside the reproduction of Dolly's childhood cabin—hard to imagine living here in the winter, let alone as one of 12 kids!

Enjoying the Fall Festival

Fall Festival decor—notice the "Dollywood" sign in the background

This part of the park honors traditional Appalachian crafts

This is a functioning chapel inside the park with Sunday services, and named in honor of the country doctor who delivered Dolly.

Riding the coal-powered train around Dollywood (soot and all)

view of Dollywood from the train

There's a museum inside the park; this is the dress she wore when receiving the Kennedy Center Honors.

A few of her costumes from her Christmas specials

Enjoying one of the many musical performances (this group played bluegrass)

This part of the park had giant pumpkins from all over the country.

Entrance to the museum

While the other "pumpkin" displays are non-perishable, they had an artist there carving these real pumpkins with designs of local plants and animals—so talented!

"The Wildwood Tree"

More fall, more butterflies

 

The day passed quickly, and I could see why so many people love it!

The Road to Dollywood

Maybe it was a desire to chase fall foliage, or maybe it was the persistent belief that we should’ve elected Dolly Parton for President (I’d voted for her). But thankfully once again, Kara needed little convincing for us to take a road trip—this time, to Dollywood. I’d driven this way once before, but the east-west size of Virginia always surprises me. Along the way we made two exciting stops: the Route 11 Potato Chip factory, and the new Buc-ee’s. We were lucky to stop at the chip factory on a weekday so we could see all the equipment in action (the peeler/slicer was so impressive!), and to sample most of their flavors before stocking up with the factory discount. It was even the right season to get their Yukon Gold chips. 

Potato Chip sampling

And this Buc-ee’s was just as popular and clean as the others we’ve visited. The long drive also left plenty of time to listen to a biography and brush up on our Dolly knowledge.

This is the first Buc-ee's in Virginia and just opened within the last year

It was late afternoon when we arrived in Pigeon Forge, and after checking into our hotel we walked around downtown for a bit before dinner at the Old Mill Restaurant. It was clearly a town driven by tourism, and occasionally we’d hear the train whistle from Dollywood ringing through the valley. 

Old Mill Restaurant

We’d heard good things about the restaurant from friends who’ve been there, and it was fun meeting our fellow tourists as we were seated around a large round table, but it was so late by the time we finally sat down that I couldn’t finish the enormous pieces of fried chicken (hooray for leftovers).