Day 3: São Miguel Island, Azores

Today was our last day on Sao Miguel and before checking out of our hotel, I took a quick walk to the beach to dip my toes in the middle of the Atlantic and collect a shell or two.

Beach in Povoacao

Dipping my toes in the Atlantic

Calçada portuguesa in Povoacao

Our first stop was Farol do Arnel, the oldest lighthouse on the island. It sits on a small peninsula down a short road too steep for cars, and almost too steep for me. It was a little disappointing that the lighthouse isn’t open to the public, but the views of the surrounding coastline were gorgeous as we hiked back out. In the end, my favorite view of the lighthouse itself was from a nearby overlook. 

Farol do Arnel, up close after hiking down the road

Coastline near Farol do Arnel while hiking back up the road (our car is at the top of these cliffs)

overlook of Farol do Arnel (just a few feet away from our car)

Our next stop was Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme, a combination of landscaped gardens and outdoor museum honoring the natural and agricultural history of the region. We briefly hiked along waterfalls and down paths past old mills-turned-exhibits, and capped our visit with sampling a brand of ice cream using local milk. I tried a flavor called “Queijada Graciosa” and can only say it was delicious.

Gardens and kinetic sculpture at Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme

Waterfall at Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme

Historic mill-turned-exhibit space at Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme

Water channeled into the mills to power the grindstones at Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme

Overlook at Jardim Botânico da Ribeira do Guilherme

Local gelato

Hydrangea hillside

Stopping in Ribeira Grande, I enjoyed a light vegetable soup for lunch overlooking the ocean and a brief walk around the pretty town, including a stop for pastries.

View from a bridge of the other historic bridges in Riberia Grande

Town hall in Riberia Grande

Fueled and with a free afternoon, we returned to Sete Cidades and were finally rewarded with views! Albeit, intermittent views. We went on the short Miradouro da Boca do Inferno trail which was mostly cloudy, but waiting it out revealed dramatic cliffs and a gorgeous view of the lakes below.

Lagoa Azul, at last!

What the view usually looked like: peeking through the clouds

When the clouds lifted, I saw the dramatic cliffs on either side of the trail.

More of the beauty of Sete Cidades

Afterward we returned to the coast and visited another overlook called Miradouro da Ponta do Escalvado. 

view from the overlook

By this point we’d nearly driven all the way around the island, so we completed the loop before returning the rental car and taking a taxi to our hotel downtown. The way the hotel was managed was a little quirky, but the location was great. It was a short walk to the waterfront where we found one of the few open restaurants for dinner, and while the service was slow the key lime pie was wonderful. It was a sweet ending to our time in the Azores.

A sweet finale to the Azores