Just a few weeks after Utah, I was back on the road for my friend, Melissa’s, wedding. My destination: Palmyra, in upstate New York. I tried visiting our library rather than the bookstore to see what travel books they had to offer for the region, and found a paltry selection: one book on the whole region, and another book about the folklore of the Erie Canal which goes through Palmyra. I checked out both, just in case. I drove up with my friend, Courtney, stopping along the way to eat at a “farm to fork” restaurant in the Hotel Hershey—the chocolate teriyaki wings were delicious. We arrived in Palmyra just as the sun was starting to set, and just in time for the sealing. One of the benefits of being married in a small temple on a Thursday night in the off season: the wedding party gets a private tour of the temple afterward. It only took about 10 minutes, but gave me an added appreciation for the symbolism of the tree motif found in all the windows. We left as the last bits of daylight turned the sky from deep pinks to royal blues and walked around to see the windows from the outside.

The next morning, I dropped off Courtney at the airport and was bequeathed her GPS as I switched into pure tourist mode. A coworker’s husband is from Buffalo and after hearing him rave about it, I was more than a little curious to see what it had to offer. Aided by a sunny, mild day and some maps I printed off a website, I began an architecture walking tour in one of the historic neighborhoods of Buffalo. I walked block after block of beautiful homes, mansions, and apartment buildings from a variety of architectural periods. When I finished the loop, I drove to the Anchor Bar and ate Buffalo Wings in their birthplace—I’d forgotten how spicy they are. I’d enjoyed the walk so much that I decided to do the other route I’d printed off, and realized how accustomed I’d become to looking at mansions when I actually started to think that some of the smaller ones were “reasonably” sized and pictured myself living there. A few blocks later, I was on a street of lovely homes, not mansions, that were still bigger than where I currently live and yet they seemed tiny. The highlight of this route was visiting a church that had a few Tiffany windows.
Driving through the outskirts of Buffalo and rural New York to the reception, I wondered how people could be satisfied to live in homes that were decent, but didn’t look as pretty. Of course custom homes are more expensive, but why couldn’t some elements of the styles I’d seen earlier be mass-produced? Or if they were, would I appreciate them as much?
The route to the reception was near Lake Erie so on a moment’s impulse I took the detour and drove to its shores—I’m a geography nerd, after all. It was lovely at sunset, but after all I’d heard about its pollution over the years I was fearful to put more than a toe in its waters. By this time I was running a little later than planned to the reception, so it didn’t help when my printed directions stopped making sense. It was asking me to continue on a street than ended, turning onto a street that wasn’t there. I broke down and turned on the GPS, but that wasn’t helping, either. I circled around a few times and even tried stopping at a gas station to ask for directions (it was closed). Eventually I discovered the cause: the bridge was out. Thankfully an alternate route was nearby, but what are the odds? Of the two wedding receptions for friends I’ve driven to in New England, both have had bridges out within the last few miles of the route. Seriously, how often are bridges out in this region?

I arrived much later than intended, but it was great to celebrate the events of the previous night, and to connect with other friends who’d join me for the following day’s adventure. We caravanned back to Niagara and collapsed.
Saturday morning we got the earliest start we could muster for Niagara Falls.

I’d been here with my family back in 2001, but I wanted to get a closer look—and to cross the US border. We started with the famous “Maid of the Mist” cruise and marveled at the sheer power of the Falls. The Falls undercut themselves and erode upstream each year, so it’s probably a little different each time. You feel pretty insignificant at the base, not to mention a little damp.

Thank goodness for those lovely ponchos! The rest of the group hadn’t experienced Buffalo or the Church History sites yet, so after the cruise we parted ways and I headed over to Canada. I’d actually renewed my passport with this specific trip in mind, so I was a little miffed when they wouldn’t bother to stamp it. Trust me, I was there. My guides were my roommate’s nephews, Andrew and Paul, and since my time was limited we didn’t stray far from Niagara (Ontario this time). It was very touristy, but we did manage to find the two Canadian experiences I wanted to try: Tim Horton’s and poutine.

I’m looking forward to seeing more of this country in the future, but after stocking up on their exotic flavors of potato chips I had to head back to America. I took a different bridge back and quickly regretted it—or slowly, as the bridge closest to Niagara is naturally the most popular…and slowest. This had set me back further than I’d hoped, so despite my lead foot, I still got back to the Palmyra area after the Church History sites has closed. Luckily, the Hill Cumorah is an outdoor site and I was able to climb to the top and have to myself. I took a chance and drove to the Sacred Grove, and neither the parking area nor entrance to the Grove was blocked off. That was all I needed, and proceeded to take a brisk stroll at dusk down every path I could find.

It was beautiful early in the spring and late in the day, and I felt so lucky to have the woods entirely to myself to ponder the significance of what took place there. And then I got back to my car…